Perched on the 102nd floor of The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, Tin Lung Heen is far more than a restaurant – it is an unforgettable experience in itself. This establishment has held two Michelin stars for years and earned one Black Pearl diamond. It is not only one of the highest Cantonese restaurants in the world, but also a cloud-level sanctuary overlooking Victoria Harbour.
Stepping inside, the two-storey floor-to-ceiling windows draw the harbour’s magnificent panorama fully into the room. Amid the modern Chinese interiors dominated by elegant rosewood, soft light falls across crisp white tablecloths. Beyond the glass, ships drift and clouds glide; within, exquisite dishes and attentive service await.
The Abalone Puff with Kurofu Sawmill Sauce offers tender abalone atop a savoury black-pepper roasted duck filling. The Salmon Roe and Crab Leg Dumpling bursts with briny roe that complements the sweet crab meat. The Dragon and Phoenix Siu Mai arrives as two varieties in one steamer – one with springy prawn, the other with tender scallop – each bite a delight.
The first main course is Tin Lung Heen’s signature dish: Honey-Glazed Spanish Iberian Pork Char Siu. The chef selects only the shoulder cut of Iberian pork, of which each pig yields just two pieces, with fat and lean marbled like fine stone. At first bite, the edges are slightly crisp, the interior meltingly tender, as the savoury richness of the fat and the chew of the lean intertwine. The honey glaze is never cloying, leaving a savoury sweetness that lingers.
Next comes a double-boiled soup of fig, kudzu root, and matsutake mushroom. The broth is crystal clear, the natural sweetness of fig, the soft starchiness of kudzu, and the earthy umami of matsutake simmered into perfect harmony. It is remarkable that a purely vegetarian broth can be so deeply satisfying – and it cleanses the palate beautifully after the richness of the char siu.
The Deep-Fried Stuffed Crab Shell is another testament to the chef’s skill. The shell is crisp without being greasy, packed with generous, solid crab meat, every mouthful tasting of the sea. The Steamed Crab Claw with Egg White and Hua Diao Wine is even more refined – a whole crab claw resting on silky steamed egg white, gently cooked with Hua Diao wine whose fragrance permeates the crab without overwhelming it, instead drawing out its natural sweetness. The egg white, having absorbed the crab’s essence, is as tender as bean curd – best enjoyed with a spoon, savouring every drop of juice and meat.
The meal closes with desserts that carry the warmth of old-school Cantonese tradition. The Shredded Coconut Egg Ball is coated in fine coconut shreds, soft and airy inside, with a rich egg fragrance. The Classic Egg Tart features flaky pastry that shatters at the lightest touch, with a custard centre that is silky smooth and delicately sweetened. Paired with a final cup of honey-scented oolong tea, it brings the meal to a perfect, rounded close.
